Welcome to the October meeting. Today we have a cooperative meeting with Cindy Gilberg from Gilberg’s Perennial Farms, Kent Theiling, Arborist and myself, Douglas R. Wolter, Horticulturist of St. Louis County Parks, planting a Heritage Garden. This garden will commemorate the Children’s Garden Club, my Mother, Father and Brother’s passing.

In the Spring of 2001 we celebrated Arbor Day and learned about trees. In Missouri the first Friday in April is “Arbor Day.” Our State Tree, the beautiful flowering Dog wood. As trees change color, last September we learned why and tree identifications.

Kent thought it would be a good idea to actually plant a tree. Fall is the best time for planting. For one thing, the mild temperatures are perfectly suited to this kind of outdoor activity. But nursery experts also say that the cool weather and abundance of rain provide excellent conditions for giving plants a healthy start. Fall planting is beneficial for trees and shrubs because it gives them a head start on the spring growing season to establish strength and vigor for enduring the upcoming hot-weather stresses.

Even as fall progresses and the temperatures cool off considerably, you can still plant safely because the soil loses heat very slowly. When winter comes the soil will stay warm enough to maintain root growth. In most cases, root growth is sustained when soil temperatures are 40 degrees or above. Keep the plant warm by covering it with about three inches of mulch. But remember that some plant material (i.e. perennial bulbs) must be planted early enough in fall to provide sufficient growth and development to withstand winter’s challenges.

Fall is also for perking up your lawn by seeding and sodding it. And because the soil stays moist through winter, fall is also the perfect opportunity for putting in bulbs. With the right selections you may treat yourself to some colorful bursts as early as the last few days of winder.

For best results, say AAN’s experts, be sure to put in plants that are balled and burlapped or container-grown. The advantage to using these plants is that the plants’ roots stay in the soil in which they were originally grown, and the roots will grow stronger.

Another tip from the experts is applying mulch to new plants, particularly to the ground covers. They need that protective layer for the warmth, moisture and week control it provides. New plants also need consistent watering into late fall.

Fall is for planting trees. Fall is the perfect time to plant a tree - for both gardener and tree! People who love the outdoors particularly enjoy spending time in the yard during the cool, sunny days of autumn. Trees benefit too, in that they have time to get established before winter comes, and the soil is better able to retain moisture during the fall than during the hot days of summer. If you’d like to add a tree to your home landscape, follow these easy steps from the American Association of Nurserymen (AAN).

Select the tree and decide where to plant. Choose a tree based on your lawn’s sun, soil, moisture and temperature conditions, as well as your personal preferences regarding color, size and leaf shape. Make sure you choose a site in your yard that will accommodate the tree after it has matured. You might want a smaller or slower-growing tree if you’re planting close to your house. If you’re seeking to screen out an undesirable view, however, a larger or faster-growing variety may be just what you’re after. For help making the decision, ask the experts at your local garden center.

Psychologically, spring will always be a popular time to plant. In the past, fewer plants were available in fall. That scenario is changing as consumers become aware of the benefits of fall planting. You can hasten the shift by letting your nursery professional know you need certain plants at certain times. Place your order ahead and the crisp days of fall will be planting pleasure.

University of Missouri Horticultural Extension Service.

Our state University Extension Service publishes periodic reports to the nursery industry with information useful to all who garden in Missouri. We would like to excerpt and/or summarize some recent Extension articles with timely tips to help with your fall gardening preparations.

There is an increasing body of evidence documenting the benefits of fall planting of trees and shrubs. The cooler air temperature, high light intensity, warm soil temperature, and ample soil moisture in fall often promote root growth, giving the fall-planted specimen a toehold before summer heat arrives. Fall plantings are typically found to have significantly greater leaf area, canopy width and plant height the following spring than plantings done at other times of the year. This information alone should make you want to come out right now and select some beautiful specimen trees and shrubs to beautify your home!

On the topic of watering, we all know how important it is to keep the soil around our plants consistently moist during the growing season, but did you know that all plants, especially evergreens, should never be allowed to go into the winter suffering from moisture deficit.

Tree Trivia 


 
1.	What are other names for cutting down trees?
	   
2.	How are logs moved from one location to another?
	   
3.	How could fire help a forest grow?
	   
4.	A tree is a living woody plant. Name four factors trees need to grow.
	   
5.	What is the purpose of the bark on a tree?
	   
6.	What part of the tree makes food?
	   
7.	What can you tell by looking at the tree’s bark?
	   
8.	Explain the “timberline” in the mountains.
	   
9.	What trees are noisy in the wind?
	   
10.	What disease almost destroyed the elm trees?
	   
11.	What is the difference between a white pine and a red pine?
	   
12.	What is the easiest way to identify a tree?
	   
13.	Name four shade trees.
	   
14.	Name some fruits, which we eat that come from trees.
	   
15.	Name the thin oil made from evergreen trees.
	   
16.	This type of bird uses a tree for its home. 
	   
17.	What tree leaf looks like a mitten?, a heart?, a star?, a hand?
	   
18.	When trees turn to stone, they become ___________.
	   
19.	Trees that prevent soil from washing away are controlling land ________ .	 



Tree Trivia – Answers

 
1.	Timbering or logging
	    
2.	By horse, water, trucks or trains
	   
3.	Ashes put nourishment in the ground, which causes growth
	   
4.	Air, water, soil, and food 
	   
5.	Outer bark is a form of insulation & protection. Inner bark transports the food
	   
6.	The leaf
	   
7.	The tree type 
	   
8.	The upper limit of tree growth on mountains
	   
9.	Evergreens, Whispering Pines and, Aspens
	   
10.	Dutch Elm disease
	   
11.	White Pine has soft needles
	   
12.	By its leaves
	   
13.	Oak, Maple, Locust, Ash, and Bradford Pear
	   
14.	Fruits such as apples, pears, peaches, nuts and avocados
	   
15.	Turpentine
	   
16.	Woodpeckers 
	   
17.	Mulberry/Sassafras, Poplar/Redbud/Linden, Sweet Gum, White Oak
	   
18.	Petrified
	   
19.	Erosion	 

The American Nursery and Landscape Association (Formerly American Association of Nurserymen) suggests the following general guidelines for all yard and garden maintenance. For advice tailored to your specific growing zone, clip this list and review it with your local garden center.

• Rake leaves onto compost pile or shred and use for mulch.
  
• Fall is garden clean up time. Trim back spent perennials (except roses). Chop up debris and compost. Pile loose mulch-such as pine needles, straw or leaves on tender plants that require protection - roses, young seedlings, strawberries and perennials.
  
• Harvest cold-sensitive vegetables before frost. Dig beets, radishes and carrots when ground cracks at plant stem. Plant cool weather vegetables: kale, hardy onions, collards, cabbage, garlic and potatoes in some area. Mulch well.
  
• Evaluate your lawn. Some parts of the country can apply broadleaf weed killers if necessary. Fall is the time for one last now in most areas. Set mower blade to highest setting. Fescue lawns can be reseeded now; summer grasses can be over seeded with rye in mild-winter regions. Drain gas and oil from all power equipment to prevent starting problems in spring.
  
• Remove broken, diseased or damaged branches from trees and shrubs.
  
• Plant new trees in fall. Give the new transplants an extra watering before winter sets in.
  
• Enjoy fall annuals - mums, asters, and pansies - in warmer regions. Cut back mums after they bloom. Deadhead pansies for prolific blooms all season long.
  
• Plant daffodils and other spring flowering bulbs when soil is cool.
  
• Direct sow wildflower seed that requires cool temperatures - larkspur and poppies, for example.
• If a live (not cut) Christmas tree is in your plans, dig its hole before the ground freezes and mulch well.
  
• Continue to feed the birds with seed and suet - they’ll rid your trees of pest larvae, eggs and insects.
  
• Let the grass grow as tall as you did during the summer until the last now of the year. AT that time, lower the mower height.
  
• Water just one inch or less each week if you are not receiving rainfall.
  
• Fertilize from mid-September to November, based on recommendations for your area. You can ask the experts at your local garden center if you have any questions.
  Collect leaves within one week of heavy rains. Collect leaves completely before the first snowfall.
  
• Dethatch, aerate or re-seed if necessary.
  
• Use lime based upon the results of a soil test.
  

Plant bulbs and Pansies together for color and fun. Planting bulbs is a great way to bring an early burst of color into your garden. According to the American Association of Nurserymen (AAN), when you combine bulbs with other flowers such as pansies, you’ll gain a wonderful opportunity to introduce new and different colors into your garden each year.

Crate your bulb and pansy garden by starting with bulbs, planting them in the fall before the first frost. The next spring, after the bulbs have dazzled and enlighten with their bright colors, bring on the pansies. Plant pansies in a partially shady area, applying mulch to keep the roots cool. Or, in warmer climates, you can even plant the pansies in the fall.

To encourage large blooms throughout the season, “deadhead,” or remove, any bedraggled flowers by pinching them off where the head of the flower meets the stem.

Fall is for……fresh garden vegetables. Fall is a great time to plant a “salad garden,” according to the American Association of Nurserymen (AAN). Unlike the vegetables of the summer garden, home grown radishes, lettuce, onions and herbs can flourish with cooler weather, less sunlight and less garden space.

First, be sure to utilize all of the cultivated land in your lawn or garden, including the areas behind shrubs, which are usually left bare.

Radishes, lettuce, onions and herbs can thrive in patches of land that are virtually any size, shape or depth. With careful planning, you can build an aesthetically pleasing landscape which features bits and pieces of your salad garden tucked among your other plants, shrubs and trees.

Simply take care that the areas you select will provide your vegetables with at least four to five hours of direct sunlight.

Second, prepare the spot you have selected with additional organic matter. This will increase your site’s capacity to hold water. Add a layer of three inches of peat moss or compost, as well as gypsum and limestone at the rates of .05 lb each per 10 square feet.

Add in a small amount of fertilizer and dig all of these nutrients into the natural soil, preferably to a depth of at least nine inches. Level the soil mixture and you’re ready to plant.

Third, plant each patch you have cultivated with one kind of seed. After sprinkling the seed on the prepared soil surface, cover the entire patch with one- fourth of an inch of the soil mix, or as recommended on the seed packet.

Lightly firm the soil mix into place with a rake, water it gently and cover it with newspaper. As long as the soil temperature is at least 60 degrees, lettuce and radishes should germinate in three to five days.

Vegetable gardens are also easy to care for. If a week passes without significant rainfall, water your garden thoroughly. Apply a light application of fertilizer to help your garden green up and to encourage growth. You should harvest your salad garden as soon as the first plants reach edible size. This will give the remaining plants space to develop. Create a colorful, flavorful “salad garden” this fall - and enjoy the compliments you’re sure to receive from family and friends alike.

Fall is the time for planting: What do enjoying football games, sipping cider and great gardening all have in common? Fall is the best time for all three! The American Association of Nurserymen (AAN) shares the advantages of fall planting.

Stress reduction for plants. Fall installation gives plants a chance to establish a strong root system. Plants entering dormancy are not under pressure to produce top growth and blooms. Most perennials flower in the spring. However, if planted then, they may not have enough time to bloom. Water requirements diminish. In many parts of the country fall and winter are wet months, reducing the need for water. This doesn’t mean you can forgo watering altogether. Always check soil moisture if you’ve had fall or winter droughts. Fall is more forgiving than summer, when plants can die quickly if you forget to water.

Mulch sources abound. Leaves and grass clippings are plentiful in fall. In the past, these might have been thrown on a bonfire, but now we put them to good use as mulch. Mulch aids moisture retention and reduces weeds.

Test the soil for drainage. Before you plant a tree, test your soil for drainage. Dig a hole, fill it with water and check it twice, once after 24 hours have elapsed and again after 48 hours. If the hole drains well in this time frame, the soil should adequately support a tree in this area.

Dig the planting hole and place the roots inside. Dig a hole two to three times wider than, and about as deep as, the tree’s rootball. The hole should be deep enough that the tree is at or slightly above the depth it was in the nursery field. If your hole is too deep, the tree will settle as you water it, placing stress on the root system.

If you’ve selected a bare root tree, gently place the roots in the planting hole, taking care not to tangle or twist them. If you’ve selected a container-grown or balled and burlapped tree, mound up a small amount of soil in the bottom of the hole, and place the tree on top of the mound.

Fill the hole and water thoroughly. After placing the tree in the hold, refill the hole with the soil you initially removed. As you refill it, gently firm the soil to remove air pockets. This will keep the roots from drying out. Water deeply, and enjoy!

Today, Cindy and I would like to go over spring flowering bulbs. We are going to discuss how a picturesque landscape doesn’t just happen with fall bulbs and spring flowering bulbs, and the Paperwhite Narcissus.

The name “bulb” has two meanings - in some sense only to the true bulbs are underground bud or fleshy underground parts, which include corms, tubers, and rhizomes.

Bulbs are underground bulbs or buds - include Allium, Chionodoxa, Fritillaria, Galanthus, Hyacinths, Iris (Dutch), Leucojum, Masacori, Narcissus, Ornithogalum, Oxalis, and Tulips.

Bulbs to be used in the landscape require an amount of five (5) hours of sun during the day is best. The soil should contain as much organic material as possible, have a moist location but never wet and drainage is critical.

You probably have seen a wide selection on displays in your local garden center. With this wide selection to choose from gives you the ability to choose a wide range of bloom time, color, height, texture and fragrance.

Personally I feel the biggest mistake many people tend to make in fall planting is too few bulbs, causing a feel for more in spring when they bloom. When you plant your first bulbs this year, remember that on a crisp autumn day in 1593 a botanist named Carolus Clusius planted a handful of tulips in a small garden at the University of Leeden in the Netherlands. Though the tulip is thought to have originated in Turkey, and first appeared farthest in Western and Central Asia, primarily in Armenia, Persia, and the Caucasus. From these lands, the tulip spreads into areas along the Black Sea, throughout the entire Mediterranean areas, even into China.

Over the past four (4) centuries, the tireless of the Dutch hybridizers have led to new, healthier and more unique lovely tulips.

Nearly a century ago, the industry adopted strict quality standards, forming organizations such as the Royal Dutch Bulb Groups Association to set and enforce these standards within the industry. Currently there are more than 3,500 tulip hybrids and species commercially propagated in the Netherlands.

All bulbs are easy to plant! You can plant them informally, naturally, or formerly in masses or singular, here and there, and many will survive in woodlands.

The sooner the bulb is planted assures you a dual purpose you get the best selection and the bulb gets a better root structure established before the ground freezes. Check the bulb flowering guide for the planting depth, spacing and flowering height.

Flower and scents has long been an attraction of bulbs - from spring Hyacinths, Narcissus, to wide selection of Lilies.

(Insert Bulb Flowering Schedule)

 As the colorful tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, crocus and most spring bulbs come to an end; and how to properly care for them for next year’s show.

The growth between now and when the foliage yellows in early to mid-summer determines the potential for next season’s flower crop. This is the time when the flower buds develop and new offsets grow to size, so add some nutrients to support bulb growth. This can be done by broadcasting a granular fertilizer like 5-10-5 or 5-10-10 at the rate of two pounds per 100 square feet across the bed. If your plantings are scattered, this works out to about one to two tablespoons per plant sprinkled around the clump. Use the higher rate for old and larger clumps.

Removing the seed pods after the flowers fade will have a positive effect upon new bulb formation and bud set. This is especially true of daffodils and tulips. Failure to do this will result in smaller bulbs because the seed pods will continue to develop and set seed. This requires energy reserves which otherwise would go into bulb growth.

Then there always is the question of what to do with the foliage. The temptation for many is to bunch the leaves with a rubber band or string into a nice tidy bundle. Alternatively, some people will cut the foliage back to the ground. Both of these practices will reduce bulb development and flower formation next season if done too early. Instead, allow the foliage to sprawl out and collect as much sunlight as possible. Generally, tulips can be cut back in mid-June; wait a month longer for daffodils. Cut the leaves back to the ground level and compost the leaf material.

Most bulbs flower very well in the first year regardless of where they are planted, because the storage reserves are already in place for the first year’s growth. The second year will reflect the new planting site conditions. If flower production is poor in subsequent years, this may be due to age. Clumps that have become overgrown will produce small flowers and stems because of crowding. Tulips fit this pattern more so than daffodils - it is wise to divide tulip plants every three to four years. If you have noticed a real decline in tulip flowers, it may be better to discard them and start over because they have a tendency to be less showy after the first two years of growth. Daffodils often can go many years without much concern.

In either case, divide the clumps any time after the foliage has turned yellow. If you replant, take the time to improve the bed by adding organic matter such as leaf compost or aged manure at the rate of two to three bushels per 100 square feet. This should be tilled or worked into the soil to a depth of about 8 inches, along with one pound of complete fertilizer. Bulbs set in this way will begin to develop a new root system through the summer, fall and winter.

If you want tubs of tulips to grace your front entryway, line your walks or wake up your deck or terrace next spring, now is the time to plant.

Following are tips from the Netherlands Flower Bulb Information Center in Brooklyn Heights, N.Y. on how to turn a few hours of effort this fall into a fabulous floral display next February through May.

Accentuate the Positive: Mini-gardens in large pots or other containers "doll up" even the smallest outdoor site. They're the perfect accent for doorways, courtyards, balconies, decks, terraces, flat rooftops, along paths or driveways, window ledges, fire escapes, and along retaining walls. They're also great for camouflaging unattractive storage sheds or garbage cans.
To Mix or Not to Mix: Some prefer a unified look: one type or color flower, such as a terra cotta pot of Apricot Beauty tulips, or a shallow stone planter of nothing but deep blue hyacinths. Others like to combine many types of bulbs for a multi-color "mini-garden" effect. Some like to have both!

All Things Considered: Choose your plantings according to:
colors, your favorites, or accent the container or the site,
containers, match the scale to the flowers and the site.
site, is it windy (choose sturdy short or medium-stemmed flowers); is it near a door or window (choose fragrant flowers like hyacinths or scented tulips or daffodils), etc.
bloom period, flowers that bloom at different times can provide excitement from February through May; look ahead, choose carefully.

Terrific Types for Pots: Some of the best spring flowers for containers include:

Anemone blanda, also known as Greek windflower,
Chionodoxa, aka Glory of the Snow,
Crocus, all species and Dutch crocus cultivars,
Galanthus, aka Snowdrop,
Hyacinth, all cultivars,
Miniature Iris, L danfordiae and L reticulate hybrids,
Leucojum, aka Snowflake,
Muscari, aka grape hyacinth, especially M. armeniacum and M. botryoides album,
Narcissus, including strong-stemmed taller cultivars and especially, shorter-stemmed and miniature varieties,
Puschkinia, P. libanotica
Scilia, S. siberica (early), S. campanulata [Hyacinthoides hispanical (late)
Tulip, shorter-stemmed cultivars such as species, T greigii,
T. kaufmanniana and T. fosteriana. Also strong-stemmed taller tulips including Darwin, Lily-Flowered, Double Early, Single Early and Triumph hybrids.

Accent to Shrubbery: Perk up potted trees and shrubs with a low carpet of small flowers such as scilia, miniature narcissi or Anemone blanda.
When to plant: Bulbs need a minimum 15-week cold period. Plant September-November in colder climates; October-January in warmer zones. (Warm zones may require pre-chilled bulbs. Ask at a local garden center).
Pot Prep: Drainage is a Must: Standing water rots potted roots. If your container has no drainage holes, make some (1/2-inch, six inches apart).
Planting Cheek-to-Cheek: Bulbs can be planted closer in a container than in the ground, even touching one another, though they shouldn't touch the pot sides.
Layer Bulbs for Waves of Color: For large, concentrated displays that bloom "in waves" all spring, plant in layers like lasagna. Place late-flowering bulbs at the bottom (where it's coolest), early-flowering bulbs up top. Large bulbs should be planted six to eight inches from surface, plant smaller bulbs five inches deep. Information about flowering times and planting depths is normally included with bulb purchases.
Water the Plants! Keep containers moist over the winter. Water is essential for growing plus it protects the bulbs from frost injury. Mulch or a perennial ground cover on top will help retain moisture.
Protect Pots from Imperfect Weather: After fall planting, put containers in a sheltered place out of wind, extreme cold or hot sun (in the south). In cold climates: put containers in an unheated, protected area like a garage or shed; if too heavy to move, wrap containers with burlap or blister wrap. In warm climates: keep pots cool, positioned out of the sun, preferably with a Northern exposure; avoid dark containers which trap heat.

With containers planted and positioned for the winter, sit back and wait for spring: fabulous flowers are on the way!

PAPERWHITE NARCISSUS

You have received a Paperwhite Narcissus (Atazelta Narcissus) which comes from the Mediterranean region, a bulb that has given endless winter pleasure to plant lovers. The Paperwhite remains one of the easiest and most popular bulbs for indoor forcing - to bloom indoors during the winter.

The Paperwhite is not hardy in northern latitudes. Commercially, these bulbs are produced in moderate climates in countries such as Italy, France and Israel. In the U.S. they are produced in Oregon. Paperwhite can be grown only in zones 9 and 10 outdoors. Missouri is in zone 4/5, so they are not hardy here.

The clusters of star-shaped flowers and delicate fragrance are pleasant during the bleak days of December and January. As a child's project, or for anyone who loves flowers in winter, growing these bulbs can be very rewarding.

Paperwhite narcissus bulbs are normally available from nurseries and garden centers at the same time as daffodils, which is also of the narcissus species. Bulbs will normally take 4 to 6 weeks to come into flower after planting. A few plantings at about 2 week intervals can give you fragrant flowers through February.

Although most people prefer the white varieties, there is also a yellow form sometimes of paperwhite narcissus. This yellow type may be found under several variety names, including Soleil d’or, Grand Soleil d’or or Rising Sun narcissus. The deep yellow color of the flowers adds brightness to the winter even though the flower clusters tend to be smaller than those of the white varieties. Keep bulbs that are not planted immediately after purchase cool. Bulbs stored at warm temperatures will be poorer in quality and may fail to flower when planted later in the fall. These are not hardy narcissus, and should not be planted outdoors in our climate.

Bulbs may be planted either in soil or in bowls containing pebbles or gravel. Bulbs planted in pots of soil or other potting material tend to be easier to care for, and have less tendency to fall over than those grown in gravel and water. Since these bulbs will not be useful for another forcing, any light, porous soil or soil mix may be used.

To grow bulbs in gravel and water, use a shallow bowl large enough in diameter to hold 4 to 6 bulbs. Space bulbs uniformly in the bowl and plant them deep enough so bulbs are almost covered with gravel. If you plant them too shallow, the developing roots may push the bulb out of the bowl. Check them occasionally and push bulbs back into the gravel when necessary. Keep the water level to the base of the bulb, but do not cover the entire bulb with water. AS roots develop, you can allow the water level to drop since the roots will be able to pick it up. There will also be less danger of rots invading the bulb.

To keep the foliage and flower stems from becoming too leggy, keep bulbs cool after planting. Temperatures close to 45 degrees are excellent for the early stages. Darkness is not necessary, but light is not needed until top growth begins. Wait until growth is 2” or 4” tall. Keep temperature about 45 to 55 degrees or as cool as possible. As leaves begin to develop, move the pot or bowl to a bright window in a cool room. Move to a cooler location after leaves are developed enough so that you see flower buds of the leaf cluster. Temperatures in the 50's, particularly at night, allow good development without excessive legginess. You can accelerate growth in a warmer location, but plants will become taller.

Bulbs in gravel and water should be checked occasionally to make sure that the water has not soured. If it smells bad, drain the water and replace it. This may be difficult in some containers. Place the bowl under the faucet in the sink and allow water to slowly run into it. This will gradually wash the gravel and change the water. Drain off excess water after each washing.

Discard bulbs after they have finished flowering. They do not have enough stored food for a second forcing, and they can not normally survive our winter when planted outdoors.