Container Gardening, and Herbs Kids Day at Gilberg's
Father's Day Celebration
Gilberg Perennial Farms

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Plants themselves take on a new character in containers -- for instance, a field of daisies are picturesque but a container of daisies have certain beauty also in a container on a terrace or deck.

  1. CONTAINERS
    The traditional flower pot with sides that slope outward slightly, has been used in gardens since Roman times. Obviously containers are used for growing plants in the greenhouse and nursery. Why not use containers if you have a yard? Containers can be a clay pot with a wide range of terra cotta from Mexico, Italy and Spain. You might use a container beginning as ornaments for their own decorative use and then the foliage or annuals/flowering plants to accent or bring a new look - color to the area and the container. A formal Italian style garden could be embellished with Florentine urns and pots.

    Containers can be used as focal points to draw the eye to various parts of a garden, to set end of a vista, mark a turn in a path, etc.

    Window boxes allow you to bring foliage and color to a house or terrace, wall or porch railing.

    Hanging baskets - plastic, redwood, clay or moss lined wire baskets can provide that added burst of color or accent on a fence, porch, garage or overhang. There are plenty of places for hanging baskets but for obvious reasons one should avoid windy sites. They can be planted to grow in sun or shade. For easy use try to avoid baskets not too high or a watering want hose will also be needed. With all containers but especially baskets, be sure to watch with the wind and all sides exposed to keep a close eye on the moisture level, a good soaking (water once and throughout, go back water again and again, or slowly for a few minutes to build up a good moisture level).

    Always bear in mind and consider what the purpose is and what you want to grow or effect you wish to accomplish and then logically decide on the suitable size to fit the plant or plants - don't have too small so that there is no room for extra soil/root development and moisture build-up with good drainage of container of course.

  2. SOIL - PLANTING MEDIUM
    The standard soilless mixes are free of disease organisms, weed seeds and insects. Understanding special mixes sold at garden stores, nurseries, are sols under a wide variety of names, potting soil, ProMix, Jiffy Mix, MetroMix, Redi Earth, are known as ASoilless Mixes. This does not mean they are dirt free. When in fact, most are all natural ingredients. Peat moss, a redwood soil condition, pine, fir bark, Vermiculite, Perlite or a sand, either Meramec or White sand.

    I personally use ProMix and add sand, and some manure and/or compost. Just for soil texture and the added nutrients.

    • You need to make sure you have good drainage of water through soil mixture.
    • Air in soil after drainage - Root development.
    • Material that will hold a reservoir of water in soil after the good drainage (Plants roots need air for good growth and respiration).

    Most soilless mixes are ready for immediate use sold in 40/50 lb. Bags or 2 cubic to 6 cubic foot bags.

  3. WATERING
    When you're growing plants in containers, it helps to see it from the plants point of view. Remember the containers are exposed on all sides. The plants roots are no longer able to search underground for life-giving moisture. Water the container thoroughly, let it drain evenly into the soil and then water again. Not just a quick sprinkle that wets only the top couple of inches. How frequently you should water depends on the mix, the type and size of container, location, temperature, wind and humidity. I would highly recommend a morning watering if additional watering is needed in the evening, some plants advertise they need watering by wilting. Don't water by the calendar. Once your plants get established, you need to wean them off, so if you are out of town and a friend is helping you out in watering, they might not water just like you.

    After planting a rim of about a one (1) inch or so depending on container size, the larger the pot the larger the rim for water to be collected/accepted to store to get down into the container.

    A suggestion to use a mulch or pea gravel or a good low cover type plants is also advisable to help collect water in the rim and hold it In the pot and keep soil in the container. This mulch or ground cover plant also makes the container more attractive.

  4. FERTILIZING
    Don't overlook the need for regular application of a complete liquid plant fertilizer, such as Schultz. A fish emulsion is good especially outside. It does have an odor for about a few hours. During the growing season the nutrients are leached from the soil with every watering. Do not feed a lot at one time but a steady amount continuously through the growing period. The use of Osmocote, is a great slow release granular fertilizer that I think is really great. There are many good water soluble fertilizers.

Possible additional reading:
Gardens by Design Container Gardening by Alan Too Good.
Gardening in Containers - Ortho Books
Hanging Gardens - Jack Kramer.
Hanging Gardens - Sunset Magazines.
Hanging Baskets, Window Boxes and other Container Gardens by David Joyce.
The Book of Container Gardening by Malcolm Hillier.
Container Gardening by The American Horticultural Society.

Douglas R. Wolter is a Horticulturist for St. Louis County Department of Parks & Recreation. He also has his own horticultural service.

For thousands of years, herbs have been one of the most important plants in the life of man. They have played a vital role in cultures, primitive and advanced all over the world. Particularly they have been indispensable in medicine, where miraculous cures have been attributed to them. For seasoning, flavoring and preserving foods have become integral parts of wedding ceremonies. As a result of all this, there is a nice tradition steeped in Lore, legend and superstitions.

Herbs, according to popular wisdom, can flavor a roast, repel mice, ward off vampires, or keep your love true, depending on which problem is most urgent and which herb is used. No wonder herb gardens enjoy a new found popularity along with getting back to nature.

The definition most acceptable as the definition of herb is; >A plant, seed, or plant part valued for its medicinal, savory or aromatic qualities. Historically, most plants that can be categorized as herbs contain some substance in the root, leaf, bark, flower or fruit that, at one time, has been used in medicine. This does include commonly viewed weds as Purslane and dandelion.

Although herbs may have an air of mystery about them, growing herbs does not need to. It's as straight forward as growing flowers and much less demanding than growing vegetables. The majority of herbs are relatively pest and disease free and require little more than a well drained or raised planter, a sunny site, the more room the better and moderately fertile soil to thrive. The ideal pH range for most herbs is 6.5 to 7.0 which is slightly acidic to neutral.

Most herbs can be started from seed at home indoors and may also be seed sown directly in the garden, or purchase heavy well established plants from your local garden center. Gilberg is having their herb weekend (Date) with special herb sales along with their free lecture series.

Herbs can be classed as both annuals and perennials started from seed each year as in basic, or biennials like Parsley or perennial like Chives or Sage.

Too rich of soil results in lush foliage which can lessen the fragrance and the flavor. A well composted, well-drained garden does most herbs just fine but most herbs will benefit from a little extra help added to the soil.

Generally use 1 2 to 2 pounds of 5-10-10 per 100 square feet during cultivating or turning over the soil for annual herbs or cultivating into existing perennial herbs.

The flavor and aroma of the culinary herbs comes from the volatile essential oils stored in small glands in the leaves, seeds and fruits. Harvest plants at the proper time to have herbs that retain their flavor. Fresh, young tender leaves can be harvested and used anytime during the growing season.

With continued learning and growing with the visit last spring of Cathy Wilkinson Barash while visiting say my sage blooming and got very excited. Its a once a year treat, an item not found all season. Its a must to have Sage Brochette so we got her book out to page 59 and what a treat - Recipe to follow.

If you wish to harvest herbs for drying, a rule of thumb is to complete your harvest while plants are in bloom. Best to wash always even if you don't use pesticides, your neighbor might. When washing, use cold water and then dry as rapidly as possible in a darkened well ventilated area. Try to use plants to retain a bright green color in leaves.

To store leaves for the stems in colored glass don't use paper or cardboard to store because they can absorb and take the essential oils from the herb.

Growing herbs is like cooking with herbs - is often a process of trial and error. Don't give up the ship, the school of hard knocks is some of the best learning. If a plant is not growing well in a particular location, dig it up and try it in another location.

The pleasure of herbs goes beyond growing and cooking - to potpourris, pomander balls, rosebud ball, soaps, scented canceled and Tussie Mussies, nose gays, festive wreaths, fresh herbal flora arrangements, dried herbal baskets, garlands -- be creative and enjoy - Bon Appetit.

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